Gander and an Unexpected Meeting

After leaving Bonavista, our next overnight destination on our journey westward was Gander, located on the northeastern shore of Gander Lake.  

Gander's aviation history is important.  During WWII, it was a trans-shipment point for aircraft being flown to Britain.  It was also known as the Crossroads of the World given its role in transatlantic aviation after the war. Its international airport was once an important refuelling stop for transatlantic aircraft before the evolution of long haul flights.  Today, the airport is less busy but it is still a preferred emergency landing point for aircraft facing on-board medical or security issues - as was evident on 9/11.  To reflect its aviation heritage, many of Gander's streets are named after famous aviators, including Alcock and Brown, Amelia Earhart, Charles Lindbergh, Eddie Rickenbacker, Marc Garneau and Chuck Yeager. Its aviation history is also vividly remembered in the town’s aviation museum which includes real aircraft such as a Canadian jet fighter. 

We were particularly interested in visiting the town because of the notoriety it gained on September 11, 2001, and we wanted to see some of the places that became well known during those days.  Our plan was to take the tour, Beyond Words - A Come From Away Experience, that showcases some of the key locals, places, and events of the week of 9/11/2001 in Gander.  It takes you to the Gander International Airport, Gander Town Hall, an exclusive mini exhibit, driving tour around key areas of the town and concluding at the North Atlantic Aviation Museum.  Unfortunately, because of Covid, the tour has been cancelled for the 2021 season so we weren't able to do that.  We would need to come up with a Plan B - we did and it was even better!

Much of the events that happened in Gander during the aftermath of 9/11 have been celebrated in the musical Come From Away.  This Canadian musical with book, music and lyrics by Irene Sankoff and David Hein is set in the week following 9/11 and tells the true story of what transpired when 38 planes were ordered to land unexpectedly in Gander as part of Operation Yellow Ribbon. The characters in the musical are based on (and in most cases share the names of) real Gander residents as well as some of the 7,000 stranded travelers they housed and fed.  At the 71st Tony Awards in 2017, the musical was nominated for seven awards including Best Musical, Best Original Score, Best Book of a Musical and Best Featured Actress in a Musical for Jenn Colella.  It won the Tony for Best Direction of a Musical for Christopher Ashley.  It has since garnered other major international awards.

I went to see Come From Away when I was in London in 2019.  I was very moved by the story, particularly the characters of Beulah and Hannah (both of whom had sons who were firefighters), Diane (a passenger from Texas), Nick (a Brit), and Bev, the Captain of one of the grounded American Airlines planes.  I had tears streaming down my face during much of the performance - not so much because of the tragedy itself but because I was so moved and proud by what the people of Gander did during those difficult days.  I bought the soundtrack and listen to it often.  In fact, as we have been driving around NL, we have played it quite a few times.  

We arrived in Gander around 4 and, after we'd checked into our hotel, my sister headed off to the Legion - she likes to visit these establishments when she is travelling as a way to connect with locals.  She thought she might be able to find some people there who had stories to tell about all those events here nearly 20 years ago - and, boy, did she!  When she returned she told me she'd chatted with Kevin (who lives in Stephenville where some of the planes landed) who told her how many "millions" of potatoes he'd peeled and another guy who'd been working at Tim Horton's at the time and made tons of donuts to feed the stranded passengers.  When she mentioned she was interested in talking to more of the people involved, one of them told her, "Just call Beulah.  She always loves to tell the stories about those events".  So, during dinner, we called Beulah (she is one of the featured characters in the musical).  She met us at the Legion and we chatted with her for a couple of hours.  I have to say she is one of the most unassuming, kind and genuine people I have ever met.  Although she is now somewhat world famous, her priority continues to be "her" Legion and making sure it is run well.  She was more than generous with her time for us and told us a few stories.  She happily showed us the kitchen where all the meals were prepared for the passengers who were housed there.  Of course, that Legion was also where those "come from aways" (CFAs) who wanted to become honorary Newfoundlanders were "screeched" (an hilarious scene in the musical).  She continues to be friends with Hannah (the New York woman whose son was killed in the collapse of the twin towers).  Sadly, Beulah's firefighter son has also now passed away.  She also stays in contact with many of the CFAs from then.  As the 20th anniversary of the event is approaching, TV crews are starting to arrive in Gander and there was an Aussie documentary crew checking into the same hotel as where we were staying.  I mentioned to Beulah that Apple TV+ is going to start streaming the musical on September 10th and she said, "Yes, I know.  They want to interview me."  - as if they were no important than two ordinary gals from Victoria who wanted to know her story.   

Beulah with Kevin (from Stephenville)

The Legion's kitchen where all those meals were prepared.

I asked Beulah to tell us a bit more about the experience and she talked about the day the CFAs were finally able to leave.

The Legion, where Beulah was, housed 78 passengers from an Aer Lingus flight.  Outside the building are a couple of photos of what it was like inside the building at that time.  In addition, there is a tribute to Beulah's contribution and effort.

While the scenery in NL has been pretty spectacular - with more to come - I am certain that evening will be the highlight of this trip!  We were so thankful to have met her.  Now, we are even friends on Facebook.  The very last thing I would have ever expected while I watched that production in London was that I would ever get to have a drink with the character I so admired in the musical.  She's one of a kind and very precious!